Hieronder een post waarbij twee belangrijke schouderlijnen (wij bieden er vier!) worden besproken.
- Spalla cadente morbida (regular soft construction) : First the navy birdseye suit:. The shoulder is still very soft with minimal padding but the seam allowances inside the sleevehead are pressed open to give a slight bit of volume. The shoulder is “cleaner” than the second example.
- Spalla manica a camicia (shirt sleeve construction) : second the blue nailhead flannel: Constructed like a shirt with a lapped seam along the shoulder line, and seam allowances are folded up and pressed up inside the shoulder. The sleeve is also cut a tad fuller at the sleevehead to create the shirring seen here when inserted into the armscye, which gives a little bit of extra freedom of movement.